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Thread: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

  1. #1
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    Default Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Hi,

    I have a Robin engine, single cyinder 244cc, EC25PS. The serial number starts with '82-' could this be the year code please?

    The ignition unit is a CU 6203 CD.

    There are five wires coming out of the engine:

    white is connected to ground
    Black is connected to black into the coil
    there's a Brown-white
    and two Yellow wires

    Four wires from the coil:

    Black connected to black from the engine
    White
    Brown-white
    and Black-red

    Can anyone tell me where these should connect please?

    I could guess that the White from the coil connects to a second ground tag as it looks like it probably snapped off from there?

    Also maybe the two Brown-whites connect together?

    It'd be better if someone familiar with this engine can advise, or point me to where I can find the info though. Any help gratefully received!

    Thanks
    Peter

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    82- is indeed the year of manufacture.
    The 2 yellows are for the rev counter/ and or rectifier. Do not connect them together.

    The rest are as you suggest

    Brown/White - Brown/white
    White - White
    Black - Black

    Black/Red from the Coil is the kill switch. Connect it to ground to stop the engine.


    Jamie
    p.s. I have some brand new original parts for this engine.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Hi,

    thanks for the info.

    The white wire from the engine had been connected to ground (the side of the engine) by someone. I guess they were playing around trying to get it to run and hopefully they've not damaged anything.

    I'll have a play tonight to see if it sparks and if not then I'll be looking for parts!

    thanks
    Peter

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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Hi,

    slight change of plan. When I disconected the black lead and removed the 'chocolate-block' connector located near the engine I found that the wire coming out was actually black-red.

    This made more sense to me as I now had the same three colours out of the engine as those going into the CD unit.

    I've insulated the yellow wires from the engine and the black wire from the CD, removed the spark-plug and attached a meter then eased the engine over and saw a voltage. Then I tried it with a spark-plug attached and it sparks. Grounding the black-red as you suggested stops the spark.

    Next I need a new spark-pug as the one with it doesn't have a removeable top-screw, looks like a new plug and someone bought the wrong one. Either that or I need a new plug-cap with a wider clamp.

    Hopefully I'll have this running before the end of the week.

    Thanks again for your assistance, it's a great 'confidence' booster having a bit of knowledge before pulling the starter cord.

    Regards
    Peter

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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Given the tweak to which wires are what colours,
    Then I will switch my statement to say:
    Black/red to black/red
    and the plain black one is the Kill switch.
    Wiring diagram below. Except from your description you have a combined CDI/Coil.


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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Save this link,

    A lot of the detail is shared between the EC25PS and the EC44PM/2PM,

    Jamie

    http://www.ultralightnews.ca/fujirobinmanual/

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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Hi,

    thanks for this. I'll test the black 'kill wire' tonight. It sounds a better option than shorting the coil to ground!

    Yes, I have a combined unit with the wires going in one side and the HT lead comes out of the other.

    Looking at the diagram I'd say that having the white lead grounded on the engine wouldn't cause any adverse affects as it looks like the common rail between the two coils. So maybe the previous user hadn't been poking around with it trying to get it going.

    Regards
    Peter

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    Default Re: Robin EC25PS ignition wires

    Hi,

    just a quick update...

    I didn't do much for a week or so, work and Easter break, etc, in the way.

    I put some fuel into the carb last night and tried a couple of pulls on the cord.

    It seemed to turn to compression once and stop dead, and it lifted the engine off the ground a bit.

    Had a re-think, clamped the top of the frame in the vice, engine stays on the ground but it still didn't seem to be getting past compression.

    Took the plug out and spun it over, free as a bird. Placed a finger against the plug-hole, not getting wet, ie, no fuel getting into the cylinder. Stripped the carb, blew out the jets & holes, etc.

    Had another re-think on my way home from work this evening. I wanted to get the thing to fire at least once to prove that the ignition is set up OK.

    I have a can of Easy-Start in the tool-box, not been used since I had my old dielsel Escort, so decided to pop the air filter off and turn the crank so the piston was up at the top of the cylinder then give it a 4 - 5 seconds burst of that into the crankcase.

    The difference was amazing, I could now feel it getting past the compression and trying a second cycle...

    3 - 4 pulls and a bit of throttle and it ran for ten seconds, revved nicely, until I killed it.

    Thanks for your help!

    Regards
    Peter

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